A gravel grid installation is straightforward groundwork. There are no fixings, no adhesive and no specialist tools. What separates a surface that lasts twenty-five years from one that fails in two winters is almost entirely what happens below the grid and how deep the stone sits above it.
This guide covers a standard domestic driveway build-up. For heavier duty use, increase the sub-base depth and check the guidance in the relevant application page.
Use the gravel calculator to work out how much stone you need for your area and depth, including how much less you need when filling grid cells.
Not structurally, the grids interlock and hold each other. An edge restraint gives a crisper line and stops surrounding soil creeping in, so most installers use one on soft edges and nothing against a hard edge.
Usually yes. Rake the existing stone out level, compact it, and check your finished levels still work against thresholds and drains. If the existing surface is broken asphalt or concrete, it has to come up or you will have no drainage path.
Clay needs more attention, not different technique. Use the geotextile without exception, increase the sub-base depth, and be realistic about drainage: if water has nowhere to go, no surface will fix that on its own.
A two-car driveway of around 40m² is a comfortable weekend for two people once the excavation and hauling away are done. The grid laying itself is the fastest part of the job.
Yes. Unlike a bound surface there is no curing time. Drive on it gently for the first few days while the stone settles into the cells, and top up any cells that drop.
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